Turbo tour through the country

Around Wartburg Castle on an E-MTB

Steep terrain, narrow paths, lush greenery and a lot of history along the route. Riding electric mountain bikes, we go quickly through the Thuringian Forest and around Wartburg Castle.

The path gets narrow. On the left, the beech trees are clawing into the steep slope with their roots; on the right, there is a drop. For the blink of an eye, the jagged rocks beneath us come into view. Alex had instructed us to “pay attention to the trail.” Mountain bikers love these narrow paths, which demand biking ability and also a degree of courage in the steep terrain. We do not go quite that furiously, but are fast enough that the trees are visible in the corner of our eyes as flying sticks. And we feel the flow, the moment of happiness on two wheels.

⠇

The path is now zigzagging through a gap in the mountains. It is important to brake slightly on the bend then gain some height with momentum. The electric motor provides the desired impetus for this. A few adrenaline-filled minutes later, we can see it. Wartburg Castle. Gleaming in the sun on a narrow ridge in the distance. Unmistakeable with its striking towers and the long green copper roof of the banqueting hall. We celebrate the glorious view from the “Breitengescheid” viewing point with a small break and a drink from our water bottles.

Yes, this is how I imagined it. I dreamt of this when I visited Wartburg Castle last year and saw the green hills, the red rock formations and the mountain ranges up to the Grosser Inselsberg. Some of the monuments and buildings near the town also made me curious. As a hiking route, this would be slightly too long for a short holiday. But fortunately, there are electric mountain bikes. And Alex Teschner, who hires the appropriate bikes at his Eisenach bicycle shop “Radstube” and offers guided tours. This means that I don’t have to study maps and apps and can enjoy the advantages of a guide: knowledgeable about the location, very familiar with the paths, with all kinds of tips and stories to hand. Alex is a real pro.

⠇

Sunset? Ideally from the Fraternity Monument

He examines my bike, checking whether it is right for my body size and whether the seat position is correct. He also explains all the important information about the gears, motor and the braking behaviour. Then we are off. Beginning on tarmacked paths so that Alex can see how I get on with the bike. But then we climb steeply upwards to the panoramic path and to the Fraternity Memorial. This was supposed to celebrate the triumph of patriotism, but instead proclaims the tragedy of German history. Instead of honouring the students’ struggle for democracy, it became a stone club wielded by a sinister nationalism. However, the view is spectacular.

In the evening, spectators gather at the foot of the mighty monument to watch the sun set behind Wartburg Castle. We continue across meadows, then through the forest. To begin with, eco and tour mode are sufficient. When it gets steeper, I can switch the motor to a higher gear. At a roadhouse, a school group has stopped for a breather, the girls looking pale as they recline in the shade, the boys with red faces from the climb. They shoot us envious looks as we easily pedal past them. Alex points to the left and right to show where his favourite trails disappear in the undergrowth. We do not turn off, but I will soon get a little taste of real adventure, even for a “normal cyclist”.

⠇

Goethe once rowed on the still Wilhelmsthaler See

After the view of Wartburg Castle, the route takes us past the Herzogseiche oak tree to the hill Grosser Drachenstein. An impressive panorama opens up again. Villages, wetlands, rolling hills. In the east, a series of wind turbines have been dabbed onto the horizon with a fine paintbrush; in the south east, a viewing tower flags up the Grosser Inselsberg. I could stay up here for a long time and enjoy the view.

“Have you looked your fill?” asks Alex. Then we ride down towards the Wilhelmsthaler See reservoir. “The front wheel brake is the important thing,” he reminds me. “But use it sparingly. And when you come out the saddle, lean back slightly, but not too far.” Yes, I know. Otherwise my arms are stretched and I can no longer steer. And I cannot reach the brakes ... All of a sudden, I need the brakes and stop behind Alex, who has stopped at the far right-hand side of the path to let two riders who are approaching us go past at a relaxed distance.

Goethe once rowed on the reservoir, which is in a dreamy location in a palace park. But he must have taken the boat with him. It is nowhere to be seen. So we swing ourselves back onto the bikes and get up speed because the path is very steep up towards the “Schwalbennest“ guest house, and there are even a couple of steps moulded into the terrain. Alex rides elegantly over them. I prefer to push my bike. With a view back over the reservoir and the palace, we stop to have a drink, a break that we need to extend slightly because it turns out that my front tyre is flat. Alex quickly dismantles the bike, levers the tyre out of the rim and pumps up the tube with a pressure cartridge. A thorn has penetrated it. The spare tube is quickly to hand and is installed just as quickly. There really are advantages to having an experienced guide!

⠇

Alex has selected a route that is tailored to my condition and my riding ability. There are also only a few people out and about here, in spite of the proximity to Eisenach, which means that we have the forest almost to ourselves. At the “Hohen Sonne“ forest settlement, we meet a number of hikers who are enjoying a sausage at a snack bar after a successful ascent via the Dragon Gorge. Very tempting – but we hold firm and instead admire the perfect visual axis to Wartburg Castle, which is a good two kilometres away.

And now on to the Metilstein, Eisenach’s 365-metre-high local mountain? That would be wonderful! But we are unfortunately already out of time and the tour that I booked with Alex is over. Very well, Alex. It really was fun doing the tour with you and the electric mountain bike. And it is good to know that it is possible to experience so much fantastic adventure around the awe-inspiring Wartburg Castle.

And the Metilstein? I will simply climb it on foot.

The Wartburg town

The area around Eisenach has a very attractive landscape and invites you to take part in various activities. But Eisenach itself also has a lot to offer. The town’s history has close links to car manufacturing and the personalities Martin Luther, Johann Sebastian Bach and Fritz Reuter. Here you will find beautiful corners, winding alleys and structural monuments from almost all major epochs, and the villa district from the Wilhelminian period.

⠇